The Best Kept Secrets of California's Mojave

You would never know it was even out there! You'd probably speed right by it on the way to your favorite destination in the desert. Just minutes away from 2 well-traveled California interstates, can be found some unique "day-tripping" spots - hidden gems often gone unseen in the Southern California high desert!

"The Mojave" - for the typical traveler this is a place often viewed as a wasteland with little or nothing to offer. We often speed down this desert's highways in an effort to get from Point A to Point B as quickly as possible. Living in Southern California, I was one of them. Often, I'd find myself trying to break the sound barrier driving 90 m.p.h. through these open stretches of road! That is until I discovered that this supposed "wasteland" was hiding some very beautiful sights, the majority of which most folks don't even know exist! My Oatman, AZ post from last week is a great example of how taking the time to explore can really lead to a nice payoff when on a leisurely road trip. These hidden places of beauty I'm highlighting today are located within an area known as the "Mojave National Preserve" - a vast piece of land which lies between Interstates 15 and 40 in the eastern high desert of Southern California.

Mitchell Caverns

Here's a great option I highly recommend for those commuters driving the I-40 segment of the Mojave. Roughly 100 miles east of the city of Barstow (or 65 miles east of Ludlow, CA) is the Essex Road exit. Just 16 miles north on this paved road, at an elevation of 4300 feet, you come upon what's known as Mitchell Caverns. These are amazing underground limestone caverns located within the Preserve where tours are given year-round. Much like New Mexico's Carlsbad Caverns, these caves contain unique geological formations such as stalactites (dripstone deposits extending downward from the ceiling), stalagmites (dripstone deposits building upward from the ground), and other oddly-shaped, beautiful formations. (see photo above for a glimpse) The caves are a constant 65 degrees inside throughout the year - even on the hottest of summer days when it can be 110 degrees outside! The caverns were well known to the Chemehuevi Indians, a place they considered sacred and called home for more than 500 years. A large number of artifacts were found in these caves as well as the remains of prehistoric animals, including an ancient sloth. When you get here, pull into the park's visitor's center and prepare yourself for the ranger-led tour which lasts about 1 1/2 hours. The tour is not at all strenous, but still, be prepared to walk. There is a half-mile walk from the visitor's center to the cave's entrance and another half-mile walk on the tour on somewhat uneven ground. So, in other words, if grandma is with you on your road trip, you may want to save this adventure for another time! There is a fee for the tour - $5 for adults and $2 for those under age 16. While it's free for those under 6 years old, it's not really recommended for children that young. In my opinion, this visit, and the tour, is well worth the small price! Here's a peek of the inside:

Hours: Labor Day weekend through Memorial Day weekend - tours (Monday through Friday) are at 1:30 pm

Saturday and Sunday tours @ 10:00, 1:30, and 3:00

Summer: tours are weekends only @ 1:30 pm

Hole-In-The-Wall

For those of you adventurous types who have vehicles capable of driving the well-maintained dirt roads within the Preserve, I recommend you check out this popular hiking area and campground, appropriately known as Hole-In-The-Wall. Besides being able to camp here, there are 2 really cool trails to hike on. There is an easy 1/2 mile (round trip) nature trail and a more challenging 1/2 mile loop trail. These hikes take you through a bizarre rocky landscape which was created millions of years ago. The most popular of the 2 trails is known as the "Hole-In-The-Wall Rings Trail". The rocks and cliffs around here literally have holes in them! In ancient times, a nearby volcanic eruption occurred which blasted out tons of gas and ash. When the gas cooled and the ash dissipated, it left behind these porous holes within the walls of the cliffs and rock formations. As you hike the trail through these canyons, there are heavy metal rings anchored into the rock to use as hand holds to ease your passage through some of the narrower and steeper sections. There is a bathroom, information center, and picnic area located at the trailhead. No fee is required for hiking around, so have fun and check it out! Here's a look at some of the rings within the walls:

Should you decide to camp here, there are picnic tables, fire rings, and pit toilets. The campground has 35 sites for RV's and tents and lies at about the 4,400 foot elevation. Due to extremes in weather during summer and winter months, it is recommended you visit during the fall or spring time periods when the temperatures are very comfortable. Bring plenty of gear, food, and water! Campsites are about $12 per site last I checked, $6 for seniors (which I'm sure are in the minority!). This also makes an excellent base camp for exploring Mitchell Caverns which is located just a few miles away.

Directions:

From I-40: Take the Essex Rd. exit (as you would to go to Mitchell Caverns) and drive 10 miles to the junction with "Black Horse Canyon Rd." - Take Black Horse Canyon Road north (unpaved, but in good condition) for another 10 miles and you're there!

The Mojave National Preserve has so much to offer! This huge area of open space can easily be accessed from I-15 or I-40 via the well-paved Kelbaker Road which connects these 2 highways. Be safe with your travels and come prepared with the essentials - hiking gear, food & water, a cell phone, and a well-maintained car. Always let people know your plans when venturing into these isolated locations! Researching this area will reveal a lot of these hidden desert gems, including: the largest Joshua tree forest in the world, huge sand dunes, a recently-restored railroad depot (Kelso Depot) and even some (hopefully extinct) volcanoes you can hike on! Here's a few teaser photos to spark your interest:

Enjoy your desert travels!

United 2-for-1 Tickets to Canada from Select U.S. Cities

With clear air, sunny skies, and warm weather, there is no time like the present for making a trip north of the border. Throw in an excellent fare sale, and you’re good to go.

Right now, United Airlines is offering a FREE companion ticket with the purchase of a ticket to Canada at regular price.

The catch? You have to depart from Denver, Chicago, or Washington DC.

The offer is valid through July 5th, 2009 for travel through September 30th. It’s too cold after then to travel here anyways!

I saw prices for two from around $400 – a steal for a Canada-bound flight. Book your tickets today!

Wild Burros, Gunfights, and a Haunted Hotel!

Here's your chance to spend a day back in time in a location reminiscent of the Old West as it used to be. And if you just happen to be lucky enough, you may even catch a glimpse of a ghost!

OATMAN, ARIZONA

If you've ever traveled Interstate 40 from eastern California into far western Arizona, you know it can be a desolate and intimidating drive! I've often driven through here on my way to Laughlin, Nevada, a small but popular gaming resort 90 miles south of Las Vegas. But if you're looking for something to do where you can take the whole family along and not gamble away your cash, give Oatman, Arizona a try. It's not one of those typical tourist traps that requires you to pay a fee to get in, such a California's Calico Ghost Town. This place is the real deal - authentic and entirely free to roam around in and explore. It's located right on Old Route 66 just west of Kingman, or about a 15 minute drive north of I-40 in northwest Arizona. Oatman consists of about 30+ gift, craft, and antique shops, a restaurant, a bar, and even a hotel (which we'll talk about later).

A BRIEF HISTORY

Oatman began in the late 1800's as a mining tent camp that quickly became a thriving gold-mining center. In the year 1915, two miners struck a $10 million gold find, and within a year, the town's population exploded to nearly 3,500. But both the population and mining booms were somewhat short-lived. A fire back in 1921 burned down many of the smaller buildings in town, and just a few years later, the main mining company shut down operations for good. In any case, the town was quickly rebuilt. After that, Oatman catered mostly to travelers commuting Route 66 who frequented the hotel, restaurant, and various other shops. The city nearly died in the 1960's when Interstate 40 was built through this area. Today it thrives pretty much entirely on tourism.

BURROS, BURROS, EVERYWHERE!

As your drive takes you closer into the town, there's a chance you may encounter some stopped traffic. How could this be out in the "middle of nowhere"? Well, this town is full of roaming wild burros! The burros are tame and occasionally wander out of the town a bit onto the roads leading into Oatman. They love to be hand-fed, so make sure you bring with you a bag a their favorite munchies - carrots! But don't worry if you forget, almost every shop in town sells them. So why are these animals out here anyways? Oatman's "wild burros" are the descendants of burros brought here by the miners back in the late 1800's. When the community was abandoned for mining purposes years later, the burros were turned loose. Their population continued to thrive. They wander the city streets by day before heading back to the hills before sunset. In fact, shopkeepers have a difficult time keeping them from popping their heads into the front doors of their businesses! Kids and adults alike love petting the burros and they fully enjoy all the attention! You must remember to bring your camera ... and be careful where you step!

WATCH YOUR BACK OR YOU MIGHT GET SHOT!

Weekends can be a little crowded, but it's still the best time to visit Oatman if you're able. This is when Main Street turns rowdy in the afternoon as mock "Wild West" shootouts take place in the middle of town, right on Route 66. Shows are put on at various scheduled hours. Also, don't be surprised if you get pulled in by one of the actors to participate in the show! I know because this happened to me once! These gunfights also take place weekdays, usually at about 1:30 p.m. It can get very hot here in the summer, so bring a hat and wear lots of sunscreen. Summer temperatures often exceed 100 degrees. In fact, every fourth of July weekend, Oatman hosts a Sidewalk Egg Frying Contest in between gun fights on Main Street!

FREE SELF TOURS OF A VERY HAUNTED HOTEL!

I'm usually skeptical when I hear stories about ghosts and paranormal phenomena, but I became a little less so on my last visit to the Oatman Hotel. This building is said to have not just one, but multiple spirits haunting the grounds, two of which are famous. Until just a few years ago, you could still rent a room for the night in one of the half-dozen or so units at the property. This city's only hotel was built back in 1902 and lies smack-dab in the middle of town.

Way back in 1939, celebrities Clark Gable and Carole Lombard came into Oatman to spend the night at the old hotel after just having been married in Kingman, Arizona. Over the next few years, both often returned here to enjoy the peaceful quiet and spend time together in the place where they spent their honeymoon. In 1942, just 3 years after their wedding, Carole Lombard was tragically killed in a plane crash. Their time together was short-lived. The room in which they stayed has since been very haunted! Former guests and staff have told stories of hearing faint whispering and giggling coming from their old room, particularly at night, when it was vacant. Lights sometimes flicker on and off and toilets are heard to flush in the empty bathrooms. A former chambermaid and a former live-in (an Irish miner) have also been known to haunt this hotel. The miner's former room is often found to be a mess by those working there. The bed sheets are frequently discovered to be thrown off the bed onto the floor and windows that were closed will mysteriously be found open! This spirit is known by the present day staff as "Oatie". People also frequently observe imprints on the bedding and pillows in rooms that are off limits to visitors. You'll definitely want to walk upstairs through the corridors and peer into each of the rooms. On my last visit here I took some snapshots. I swear to this day that in one of my photos, I caught what appears to be an image of a woman's face in the right-hand corner of a portrait! Just look for the room with the portrait of a "reindeer" in it ... Maybe you'll see it too!

For a fun way to spend an afternoon without the need to empty your wallet, I would highly recommend a visit to this unique place called Oatman. Check it out when you're passing through the area ... there's something here for all ages!

Five Big Cities That Deserve More of Your Attention!

We're all familiar with the major tourist destinations that draw the most tourist dollars. Las Vegas, Southern California, Orlando, Chicago, and the Washington-Boston corridor see heaps of international and domestic visitors alike. But what about other big cities, ones that are just as exciting but are often neglected (and even forgotten)?

Here are my picks for the five best under-rated big cities around us. I hope you'll consider something different on your next vacation and try one of these out. Each of them is perfect for a weekend getaway.

5. Jacksonville, Florida, USA

It's often forgotten that this huge city, the largest in the United States by area, is even a part of Florida. Perched on the banks of the St. James River, 15 miles inland from the Atlantic and just 30 miles south of Georgia, Jacksonville is a city set apart, with a much different 'feel' than other cities in Florida. Once you appreciate this, it becomes instantly likeable. Like its motto states, this is "Where Florida Begins".

Start your journey in the Jacksonville area with a visit to the coastline, just a short drive east of the city. On the roughly thirty mile stretch parallel to Jacksonville, you'll find Amelia Island & Ferdinanda Beach, Big Talbot Island State Park, Atlantic Beach, Neptune Beach, and Jacksonville Beach. These locations offer a great alternative to the busy, jam-packed beaches further south; you're guaranteed to have a bit more room to stretch out here.

Heading back to Jacksonville, tour the Jacksonville Zoo and Gardens - lauded as one of the southeastern USA's best. This 73-acre park features mainly African wildlife - the kids will love the elephants, lions, rhinos, and cheetahs. It'll take you around three hours to fully explore this park. Don't miss the train ($4.00) that circuits the entire zoo, providing some great viewing opportunities. Not much of a zoo person, try out a museum - Jacksonville has several. From the Museum of Contemporary Art, to the Cummer Museum of Art & Gardens, to the Museum of Science and Industry, you are sure to find something to your liking around the city.

For dinner, visit the beautiful Jacksonville Landing, located in the heart of downtown on the banks of the river. This shopping, entertainment, and dining complex is Jacksonville's answer to Miami's Bayside, or Tampa's Channelside. You'll find plenty of restaurants here, as well as great views of the downtown skyline and the river. Take a stroll through a few of the galleries here, learn the history of the city on the interpretive signs along the river, or just relax with friends and family over drinks at sunset.

4. Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA

This industrialized city probably wouldn't make this list if it were not for its beautiful setting - perhaps the most beautiful setting of any large city in the United States. Downtown Pittsburgh sits at the confluence of the Allegheny, Monongahela, and Ohio rivers, surrounded by rounded mountain peaks, and framed by a series of arching bridges.

The historic incline railways (funiculars) provide a lift up Mount Washington to some of the best views of the city that you'll ever hope to see. Start with the Monongahela Incline, which is nearer to downtown and will give you a good sense of the downtown skyline for a mere $2.00 round-trip. Then, visit the more scenic but pricier ($3.75) Dusquene Incline, perched right above the point of confluence of the three rivers. You'll be facing the Golden Triangle head on here, and your camera will surely be happy. If you feel like checking out the confluence from ground-level, visit the aptly named Point State Park, right at the tip of the Golden Triangle of downtown Pittsburgh. The massive fountain at the tip of the point is quite impressive.

In the need for some history? Check out the Carnegie Museums, a group of four unique museums that will need a good day or two to explore thoroughly. These include the Carnegie Museum of Art, the Carnegie Museum of Natural History, the Carnegie Museum of Science, and the Andy Warhol Museum. Prefer to animal-watch? Check out the Pittsburgh Zoo and Aquarium, home to a great children's section.

Nightlife needed? Head for The Strip District (the old warehouse district) or Station Square (the old train station, converted into an entertainment complex). The latter is located right across the street from the Monongahela Incline, so park here and walk over for some sunset viewing before heading back down for a great dinner.

3. Atlanta, Georgia, USA

I've known plenty of people who have called Atlanta "the most boring city in the USA". I'm not sure where they are visiting to become so unimpressed - truly, Atlanta is one of the most vibrant and entertaining cities in the United States. I went here for a rainy Spring Break in 2005 with friends, and yes, we were scorned for not joining the crowds in Panama City and Daytona Beach - but I don't regret it for a minute. There is TONS to do here, at any time of the year.

Downtown holds the majority of attractions, but there are plenty of sights further afield that you'll need a car or public transportation for. Starting downtown is a great idea - begin with the excellent Underground Atlanta shopping center, located (you guessed it) under the downtown core. Here, the streets of Old Atlanta are preserved, with original storefronts, historic automobiles on display, and even a couple of dancing cows. You'll need at least an hour to appreciate everything it has to offer.

Continue your downtown tour with a visit to the World of Coca-Cola, learning everything you'd ever want to know about Coke and how it evolved into the company it is today. You'll especially like the end of the tour - the visit to the tasting room - where you will be able to try around 25 different types of soda from around the world. I recommend the lychee-flavored Lychee Mello soda from Thailand. Steer clear of the nausea-inducing Beverly (a bitter apertif) from Italy.

Located right next to the World of Coca-Cola, the Georgia Aquarium is sure to please young and old alike. It's the world's largest aquarium, so you'll need a full day to explore. The great thing about the Georgia Aquarium is how interactive it is - you'll be able to touch and feel plenty of undersea creatures, including stingrays and horseshoe crabs (just watch those fingers).

Other attractions you will want to include on your itinerary to Atlanta include the Georgia State Capitol, CNN Center and Studio Tour (the global headquarters of CNN News), the Martin Luther King National Historic Site (the historic church of MLK, and his final resting place), the excellent Zoo Atlanta (highly recommended - you will need a full day here), Centennial Olympic Park (with wonderful run-through fountains on hot summer days), Stone Mountain Park (gondola ride to the top of Stone Mountain, with trains, laser light shows, and great views), and Six Flags Over Georgia (amusement park).

Save money on most attractions in Atlanta by visiting a branch of AtlanTIX. They offer same-day, non-refundable tickets at steep discounts. I purchased a zoo admission using their service, for around half the cost of retail.

2. Edmonton, Alberta, Canada

Edmonton, the northernmost city in the world with a population of over one million, is truly one of Canada's best. Located roughly 6 hours north of the US border (Montana) on Interstate 15, it's well off the beaten track, but rewards those who seek it out and make an effort to discover it with some of the best attractions in North America.

Edmonton's main claim to fame is the West Edmonton Mall, which was the World's largest mall until 2004 (the current record holder is in China). Currently, the West Edmonton Mall holds the title of the largest mall in North America, beating out Minnesota's Mall of America by over 1.1 million square feet. If you've been to the Mall of America, you know how impressive it is to have a theme park at its core. But imagine a larger theme park, a regulation-size skating rink, the world's largest indoor waterpark, a sea lion and flamingo habitat, a full-size model of the Santa Maria for children to explore, several themed avenues (ie. "Bourbon Street", "Chinatown", and "Europa Boulevard"), over 800 stores for your shopping pleasure, a full service casino, and an on-site family-oriented hotel, and you've got the West Edmonton Mall. You can spend days here and always find something new to do.

But, it doesn't end with a shopping mall - Edmonton is a beautiful city in its own right. It has the most urban green space of any other city in North America, highlighted by its expansive river valley. This endless sea of green, bisecting the city just south of the downtown core, is over 22 times larger than New York City's Central Park. It's truly a whole other world, with over 100 miles of hiking trails within the city limits, all of which yearn to be explored.

Be sure to check the events calendar before making any trip to Edmonton. It's the self-proclaimed Festival City, home to over 30 annual festivals, from Shakespeare-in-the-Park to Indian culture, from jazz to bluegrass, to the popular Fringe Theater Festival, everything is represented here. The highlight of the summer is the Capital Exhibition, roughly equivilent to a State Fair in the United States, with thrill rides, shows, and exhibits.

Needing more reasons to visit? Check out the nightlife of the hip-and-historic Old Strathcona district, the history within the Royal Alberta Museum, or the fragrant tranquility of the Muttart Conservatory (an indoor botanical garden). Also, be sure not to miss the stately (and decidedly British) Alberta Provincial Legislature (ie. State Capitol); a tour of the plush interior will not dissapoint.

1. Kansas City, Missouri, USA

Oh, how I love Kansas City. There isn't anywhere else that I know of that holds such amazing sights, but gets the cold snub on family vacations or romantic weekend getaways. And can it get any better?

Let's start with the obvious - Kansas City BBQ. It's simply a necessity, and you won't find a better place to sample it than at the flagship restaurant of the world-famous Arthur Bryant's Barbecue, just east of the 18th and Vine Jazz District south of downtown (1727 Brooklyn Avenue) . It might not be in the best neighborhood (don't leave valuables in your car), but this tiny hole-in-the-wall is one of the best restaurants in the USA. Skip the plate and ask for your order to be wrapped to go - you'll recieve more food for the same price, and given the portions here, you'll definitely have leftovers. Saunter up to the counter and ask for the two meat combo (I prefer brisket and pulled pork). A pile of white bread will be casually tossed onto a piece of butcher's paper, followed by a good mess of meat thrown onto them, finished off with a huge pile of fries and pickles to garnish. It's then slathered in sauce and wrapped for your consuming pleasure. You don't come here for the presentation, you come here for the flavor. A decent meal will cost you no more than $12 or so. Do not miss this place. It would be like missing heaven itself. After your meal, take a while to view the history on the walls, including several visits by famous actors and Presidents.

Be sure to head on down to the south end of the city to take in Country Club Plaza. Now, when I first heard this horridly uninviting name, I pictured yuppies and golf carts, but this is not so. In reality, you'll find Kansas City's main entertainment and nightlife district, featuring the stunning fountains the city is famous for, leafy, relaxing plazas, and beautiful Andalusian Spanish architecture (including a replica of Seville's Giralda tower). It's charming, romantic, and a beautiful place for an evening stroll with your significant other on a calm summer evening. Dining tip: Head for McCormick & Schmicks for their happy hour menu ($1.95 entrees with any drink purchase, even non-alcoholic selections). Happy hour is 3:30 PM - 6:30 PM, or 9 PM - close, daily.

In the mood for sightseeing? Head for the Liberty Memorial, a 217 foot tower within Penn Valley Park. The views of downtown Kansas City from its observation deck are superb. After the views, visit the National World War I Museum, housed within the memorial. If you're a jazz lover, you will want to visit the excellent 18th and Vine Historic District and the American Jazz Museum, checking out the old jazz theatres therein, including the Gem and the Blue Room. It's located (you guessed it) at the corner of 18th and Vine, just southeast of the city center.

Other sights worth considering around town include the many riverboat casinos, the surprisingly large Kansas City Zoo, the Worlds of Fun and Oceans of Fun theme parks, the historic City Market, and the Hallmark Cards Visitor Center (literally everything you ever wanted to know about greeting cards :))

As you can see, there is much more out there than the ordinary!